Method and Procedure
ISO 105-C06 A2S or AATCC 61 2A, not just “washing fastness”.
Tillverkare av stickat tyg sedan 2009 · Kina
GUIDE FÖR TYGTESTNING
Fastställa testkrav utifrån tyg och slutanvändning
Så här omvandlar du ett plaggslänvändning till testkrav: skriv betingelserna i sin helhet, jämför dem med uppmätta data och välj alternativ där det finns en lucka. Med en köparspecifikation genomgången rad för rad.
Slutanvändning, betingelser, data, alternativ.
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Plagget och dess skötsel
Skriv
Metod, förfarande och svårighetsgrad
Jämför
Krav mot uppmätt intervall
Täpp till luckor
Process, material eller specifikation
01
Start from the Garment
Requirements work best when they follow the end use, the test conditions and measured data.
The right test requirements come from the garment: what it is, how it will be washed and where it will be sold. A black cotton T-shirt, a pastel yoga legging and a fleece hoodie need different priorities, even when they share one brand manual.
| Användningsområde | Properties that matter most |
|---|---|
| T-shirts and tops | Washing fastness, wet rubbing, shrinkage, spirality |
| Activewear and yoga wear | Perspiration fastness, light fastness, pilling, stretch and recovery |
| Hoodies and sweatshirts | Pilling, shrinkage, rubbing on dark shades |
| Underkläder och loungewear | Perspiration and washing fastness, pH, formaldehyde |
02
Write the Test Conditions in Full
Test Severity
Pilling revolutions, wash temperature, drying method and number of cycles.
Scale and Shade Groups
Light fastness on the 1–8 scale; which values apply to dark, medium and light shades.
03
Compare Requirements with Measured Data
Before production we put each requirement next to our measured range for the same fabric type and shade. Most lines match. Where there is a gap, it is visible before dyeing rather than in a failed report on the bulk lot.
| Property | Typical requirement | Vårt uppmätta intervall | Gap to discuss |
|---|---|---|---|
| Washing fastness, colour change (ISO 105-C06) | Grade 4-5 | Grade 4 to 4-5 | Usually none |
| Wet rubbing, dark 100% cotton (ISO 105-X12) | Grade 3-4 | Upp till grad 3 | About half a grade |
| Pilling, regular cotton knit (ISO 12945-1) | Grade 4-5 at 10,800 rev | Grade 3 and above; 4 very good | Depends on yarn and finish |
Measured ranges come from our test records on bulk lots; the value that applies to an order is the one agreed in it.
04
Options When There Is a Gap
There are usually several ways to close a gap: change the process, the material or the specification.
| Property | Process options | Material options | Specification options |
|---|---|---|---|
| Wet rubbing on dark shades | Thorough soaping and fixing after-treatment | Dye selection; polyester-rich blend | Separate value for dark shades |
| Pilling | Enzyme bio-polishing; anti-pilling finish | Combed or compact yarn; tighter construction; different blend | Revolutions suited to the end use |
| Krympning | Compacting, relaxation; heat-setting for synthetics and spandex | Construction and yarn choice | State drying method and number of cycles |
| Light fastness | Dye selection | Fibre choice | Check the 1–8 scale; separate value for pale or fluorescent shades |
Each option has a cost or a trade-off in hand feel, colour or lead time. We recommend the one that fits the garment. — Xiwen Zhang, Co-founder & CEO
05
Material Notes
Knits and Wovens
Knit loops let fibres work loose more easily than a tight weave, so the same pilling test gives knits lower grades. Pilling values written for woven fabrics need checking for knits.
Pure Wool
Wool fibres felt and shrink in agitated washing and pill readily. Shrink-resist (superwash) treatment, a blend or a dry-clean label are the usual routes; the care method decides which tests apply.
Washed and Distressed Fabrics
Garment-washed, acid-washed and distressed fabrics are designed to lose colour on the surface. Their colour fastness values are set with the wash effect in mind.
06
A Buyer Specification, Line by Line
One specification we received for a 230 g/m² cotton piqué, with the customer’s details removed, and how we prepared it for production.
| Requirement | Method | Value | Our preparation |
|---|---|---|---|
| Material Sammansättning | EN ISO 1833 | 100% bomull | Standard |
| Vikt | EN 12127 | 230 g/m² ±5% | Standard |
| Structure and yarn count | ISO 7211-1, ISO 7211-5 | Piqué, 24/1 | ISO 7211 is written for woven fabrics; we confirm knit structure and yarn count on the approved sample. |
| “Tear resistance” 400 kPa | EN ISO 13938-1 | 400 kPa minimum | A bursting test (hydraulic), which suits knits; arranged with a third-party lab. |
| Pilling, 10,800 revolutions | EN ISO 12945-1 | Grade 4-5 | Above our usual cotton range; options: compact yarn, bio-polishing, or grade 4. |
| Shrinkage at 40 °C | ISO 6330 / EN 25077 | ±5% | Achievable with compacting; drying method to be stated. |
| Wet rubbing | EN ISO 105-X12 | Grade 3 (dark 2-3) | Within our measured range. |
| Artificial light | EN ISO 105-B02 | Grade 4-5 | Mid-scale on the 1–8 scale. |
| Dye class | EN ISO 16373 | Vat dyes | Possible on cotton; affects shade range and cost. |
| pH | ISO 3071 | 4–7.5 | Standard |
07
Our Approach
Review Before Production
We read the specification against the selected fabric, shade and finish before the order is confirmed.
Show the Data
For each line we give our measured range and, where needed, the options.
Agree Written Values
The agreed methods and values go into the order.
Test the Real Bulk
Test samples are cut from the production lot, so the report describes the fabric you receive.
08
Questions About Test Requirements
How should test requirements be set for a knit fabric?
Start from the end use, write the method and conditions in full, compare each requirement with measured data for the same fabric and shade, and agree options where there is a gap.
Why do dark shades often have separate rubbing values?
Dark shades carry much more dye, so more colour can transfer in wet rubbing. Many brands set a separate wet rubbing value for dark shades.
What can be done if a fabric measures below a requirement?
Options include process changes such as after-treatment or bio-polishing, material changes such as yarn or blend, or a specification change such as revolutions or shade groups.
Is EN ISO 13938 a tear test?
No. EN ISO 13938-1 and -2 measure bursting strength with a hydraulic or pneumatic diaphragm.
09
Send Us Your Specification
Share your test sheet with the fabric and colours you are considering. We will return our measured ranges and options for each line.
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