Amalaphu ezinithiweyo enziwa ubukhulu becala ngeentsinga zeyiphi into eyenziweyo

Ezona nxalenye ziphambili zamalaphu ezinithiweyo ziquka: umqhaphu, iviscose, ipolyester, i-acrylic, inayiloni, ihempe, uboya, isilika, ispandex njalo njalo.

Zithini iinkcazelo kunye neempawu zemathiriyeli ekrwada eyahlukeneyo?

1. IFayibha yomqhaphu

Ifayibha yomqhaphu luhlobo lwefiber yembewu eyenziwe ngokwandisa kunye nokujiya iiseli ze-epidermal ze-ovule echumileyo, eyahlukileyo kwi-bast fiber eqhelekileyo. Icandelo layo eliphambili yi-cellulose. I-Cellulose yipolymer yendalo. Umxholo weselulosi wekotoni eqhelekileyo evuthiweyo malunga ne-94%. Ukongezelela, iqulethe inani elincinci le-polypetalous, i-wax, iprotheni, i-fat, izinto ezinyibilikayo emanzini, umlotha kunye nezinye izinto ezinxulumene nazo. Ilaphu ifayibha ukomelela okuphezulu, ukungeneka kakuhle komoya, ukuxhathisa okulambathayo kwemibimbi kunye nepropathi ebuthathaka. Ukumelana nobushushu obuhle, okwesibini kuphela kwi-hemp; Ukuxhatshazwa kwe-asidi embi, kunciphisa ukuxhathisa kwe-alkali kwiqondo lokushisa; Inobudlelwane obuhle bedayi, ukudaya ngokulula, ichromatography epheleleyo kunye nombala oqaqambileyo. Ngenxa yokuba ifayibha yomqhaphu ineempawu ezininzi ezibalaseleyo, ikwayenye yezona zinto zibalulekileyo zemathiriyeli ekrwada kushishino lwamalaphu.

2. Viscose

IViscose, ekwaziwa ngokuba ngumqhaphu womntu, luhlobo lwefiber eyenziwe ngumntu. I-Viscose ifayibha lolona didi luphambili lwefayibha eyenziwe ngumntu kunye nesibini ngobukhulu iindidi ze-chemical fiber e-China. Isixhobo esiphambili sefiber ye-viscose yintlaka yeekhemikhali, kubandakanya i-cotton pulp kunye ne-wood pulp. I-cellulose ecocekileyo ihlukaniswe kwaye ihlaziywe ngokusabela kweekhemikhali. Ifiber yeViscose inepropathi elungileyo yehygroscopic, phantsi kweemeko zomoya jikelele. Izinga lokubuyisela ukufuma limalunga ne-13%. Emva kokwandiswa kwe-hygroscopic, ububanzi bunokuphuculwa nge-50%, ngoko ke ilaphu le-viscose liziva linzima emva kwamanzi, izinga lokunciphisa likhulu. Ukwakhiwa kweekhemikhali zefiber ye-viscose kufana nomqhaphu, ngoko ke iyakwazi ukumelana ne-alkali kune-asidi, kodwa ukuxhathisa kwe-alkali kunye nokumelana ne-asidi kubi kunomqhaphu. Ipropathi yokudaya yefiber ye-viscose ithelekiswa neyomqhaphu. Ifayibha yeViscose inepropathi elungileyo yehygroscopic, kulula ukuyidyobha, akukho lula ukwenza umbane ongashukumiyo, kwaye iyakwazi ukujikeleziswa kakuhle, esetyenziswa kakhulu kwimiluko eyahluka-hlukeneyo, impahla kunye neminye imimandla.

Ilaphu elenziwe nge-viscose fiber lithambile, ligudile, liyaphefumla kwaye likhululekile ukunxiba. Inombala oqaqambileyo kunye nokukhawuleza kombala omhle emva kokudaya. Ifanelekile ukwenza impahla yangaphantsi, impahla yangaphandle kunye nezinto ezahlukeneyo zokuhombisa.

3. IFayibha Acrylic

I-Acrylic fiber yi-synthetic fiber eyenziwe nge-polyacrylonitrile okanye i-acrylonitrile copolymer equkethe ngaphezu kwe-85% ye-acrylonitrile. I-acrylic fiber elasticity ilungile. Ukwandiswa kwe-20% yereyithi ye-rebound isakwazi ukugcina i-65%, i-curl e-fluffy kunye ne-soft. Ifiber ye-acrylic inokuqina okugqwesileyo, kwaye amandla ayo ayancipha kuphela ngama-20% xa evezwe emoyeni ovulekileyo unyaka. Ukusebenza kwe acrylic fiber ifana kakhulu noboya. Ugcino lobushushu luphezulu nge-15% kunoboya, obaziwa njengoboya obungeyomfuneko. Ineenzuzo zokuthamba, ukukhukhumala, ukudaya ngokulula, umbala oqaqambileyo, ukumelana nokukhanya, i-antibacterial, ukungoyiki izinambuzane kunye nokunye. Ngokweemfuno zokusetyenziswa okwahlukeneyo, inokuba yi-spun ecocekileyo okanye idityaniswe nemicu yendalo. Iimpahla zayo ezilukiweyo ziqhele ukusetyenziswa kwimpahla, ukuhombisa, kwimizi-mveliso nakweminye imimandla.

4. Polyester

Ifiber yePolyester yifiber eyenziwe nge-spinning polyester eyi-polycondensation ye-organic dibasic acid kunye ne-alcohol ye-dibasic. Yaqanjwa ngo-1941, lolona hlobo lokuqala luphambili lwefiber eyenziweyo. Polyester ifayibha olona ncedo lukhulu lokuxhathisa imibimbi kunye nepropathi ehambelanayo iluncedo kakhulu, inamandla aphezulu kunye nekhono lokubuyisela elastiki. Yomelele kwaye yomelele, ayixhathisi imibimbi, ayinaku-ayina, ayinantonga. Ifiber yepolyester inamandla angaphezulu, imodyuli ephezulu kunye nokufunxa amanzi aphantsi. Isetyenziswa ngokubanzi njengelaphu loluntu kunye nelaphu lamashishini. Njengemathiriyeli yelaphu, i-polyester i-fiber staple inokusontwa ngokusulungekileyo kwaye ifaneleke ngakumbi ukudityaniswa nezinye iintsinga. Inokudityaniswa neentsinga zendalo ezifana nomqhaphu, i-hemp kunye noboya, kunye neentsinga ezongezelelweyo zekhemikhali ezifana ne-viscose, i-acetate kunye ne-polyacrylonitrile. Amalaphu afana nomqhaphu, afana noboya kunye ne-flacy-like enziwe ngokujikeleza okucocekileyo okanye ukudibanisa ngokubanzi aneempawu ezibalaseleyo ze-polyester fiber, ezifana nokuxhathisa imibimbi kunye nokubamba, ukuzinza komda, ukuxhathisa ukunxiba kunye nokuguguleka kwelaphu, ngelixa iintsilelo zantlandlolo zefiber yepolyester, njengombane omileyo kunye nobunzima bokudaya kwi-textile processing, ukufunxwa kakubi kombilo kunye nokungena komoya, kunye nokunyibilika lula kwimingxuma xa kwenzeka i-Mars, njl. ifayibha ukuya kumlinganiselo othile. Umcu ophothiweyo wePolyester usetyenziswa ikakhulu ukuluka amalaphu ahlukeneyo afana nesilika. Isenokudityaniswa neentsinga zendalo okanye umsonto wekhemikhali, okanye ngesilika okanye ezinye iintsinga zekhemikhali. Le ndlela yokuluka igcina uthotho lweenzuzo zepolyester.

I-Polyester textured larn (ikakhulukazi i-elastic esezantsi ye-DTY) yahlukile kumsonto we-polyester we-filament we-fluffiness ephezulu, i-crimp enkulu, inwele eyomeleleyo, ukuthamba kunye nobude obuphezulu belastiki (ukuya kuma-400%). Ilaphu elilukiweyo lineempawu zokugcinwa kokufudumala okuthembekileyo, ukugquma okulungileyo kunye ne-drape, i-luster ethambileyo kunye nokunye. Ifaneleke ngokukodwa ukuluka amalaphu esuti afana nelaphu elifana noboya kunye neserge, iimpahla zangaphandle, iidyasi kunye namalaphu ahlukeneyo okuhombisa afana nekhethini, ilaphu letafile, ilaphu lesofa njalo njalo.

5. Inayiloni

Inayiloni, ekwaziwa ngokuba yiPolyamide, yaphuhliswa ngusosayensi obalaseleyo waseMelika uCarothers kunye neqela lophando lwezenzululwazi phantsi kobunkokeli bakhe. Yayilixesha lokuqala ifayibha zokwenziwa ehlabathini. Inayiloni ligama le-polyamide fiber (nayiloni). Ukubonakala kwenylon kwenza i-textile ibonakale intsha ngokupheleleyo. Ukwenziwa kwayo yeyona nkqubela iphambili kumzi mveliso wefayibha zokwenziwa, kodwa ikwayinto ebaluleke kakhulu kwichemistry yepolymer. Olona ncedo lubalaseleyo lwenayiloni kukuba ukuxhathisa kokunxiba kuphezulu kunazo zonke ezinye iintsinga, ukuxhathisa ukunxiba kuphindwe ka-10 ngaphezulu kunomqhaphu, amaxesha angama-20 aphezulu kunoboya, yongeza kancinane ifayibha enayiloni kwilaphu elidityanisiweyo, inokuphucula kakhulu ukuxhathisa kwayo. , xa unwenwe kwi-3-6%, izinga lokubuyisela i-elastic linokufikelela kwi-100%; Inokumelana namashumi amawaka egoba ngaphandle kokwaphuka. Amandla e-nylon fiber yi-1-2 amaxesha aphezulu kunomqhaphu, amaxesha angama-4-5 aphezulu kunoboya, kunye namaxesha ama-3 e-viscose fiber. Nangona kunjalo, ifayibha ye-polyamide inobushushu obuphantsi kunye nokumelana nokukhanya kunye nokugcinwa kakubi, okwenza iimpahla zingabi crispy njengepolyester. Ifayibha yenayiloni inokudityaniswa okanye iphonswe esulungekileyo kwiintlobo ngeentlobo zeengubo ezinithiweyo. Umcu wenayiloni usetyenziswa kwishishini lokunitha kunye nesilika, efana nekawusi yenayiloni, igauze yenayiloni, inethi yeengcongconi, ileyisi yenayiloni, impahla yangaphandle enayiloni eyolula inayiloni, isilika yenayiloni okanye iimveliso zesilika eziphothiweyo. Usinga lwenayiloni olusisiseko lusetyenziswa kakhulu ukudityaniswa noboya okanye ezinye iimveliso zoboya bekhemikhali ukwenza iindidi zokunxiba – amalaphu axhathisayo.

6. Ifayibha yeFlakisi

Ifibre yeflakisi lusinga olufumaneka kwizityalo ezininzi zeflakisi. Ifibre yeflakisi yifiber yeselulosi enelaphu layo elineempawu ezifanayo nomqhaphu. I-Flax Fiber (kuquka iramie kunye neflakisi) inokuphothwa icoceke okanye idityaniswe ibe ngamalaphu. Ilinen ineempawu zamandla aphezulu, ukufunxa okusebenzayo kokufuma kunye ne-thermal conductivity eqinile, ngakumbi amandla e-fiber yokuqala yendalo. iflaksi ifayibha ineengenelo zokuba ezinye iintsinga azinakuthelekiswa nanto: inomsebenzi wokufunxa kakuhle ukufuma kunye nokuphefumla, ubushushu obukhawulezayo kunye nokuhanjiswa, ukupholisa nokukruqula, ukubila akusondezeli, ukuthungwa okukhanyayo, amandla anamandla, ukuthintela izinambuzane kunye nokungunda, umbane ongatshintshiyo. , Ilaphu akulula ukungcolisa, umbala othambileyo kunye nesisa, urhabaxa, ufanelekile ukukhupha kunye nokukhuselwa kwesikhumba somntu. Nangona kunjalo, uphuhliso lwefibre yeflakisi luthintelwe ngenxa yokunganyangeki kwayo okungabalulekanga, ukuxhathisa kwe-crease, ukuxhathisa ukuqhawuka kunye nokuziva ukukrwempa. Nangona kunjalo, ngophuhliso lwetekhnoloji eyahlukahlukeneyo yonyango lwangaphambili kunye ne-post-processing, ezinye zeziphene zayo zendalo ziphuculwe kakhulu. Uphando lubonisa ukuba phakathi kweentsinga ezininzi ezilukiweyo, iflaksi ifayibha yifayibha yendalo enowona msebenzi unokwenzeka. Iflakisi ifibre ibisoloko iyenye yentsika yelaphu ephambili eTshayina kwaye yonwabela udumo oluphezulu kwihlabathi.

7. Uboya

Uboya benziwe ikakhulu ngeprotheyini. Ukusetyenziswa koboya komntu kunokulandwa emva kwiXesha leNeolithic, ukusuka kuMbindi weAsia ukuya kwiMeditera kunye nezinye iindawo zehlabathi ezisasazekileyo, ngaloo ndlela zibe yeyona nto iphambili yelaphu e-Asia naseYurophu. Iintsinga zoboya zithambile kwaye ziyalastiki, kwaye zingasetyenziswa ukwenza amalaphu afana noboya, uboya, iingubo, ukuvaleka kunye nempahla. Iimveliso zoboya zizityebi ekubambeni, ukugcinwa kakuhle kobushushu, ukukhululeka ukunxiba njalo njalo. Uboya buyimathiriyeli ekrwada ebalulekileyo kushishino lwamalaphu. Ineengenelo zokwaluka okulungileyo, ukufunxa ukufuma okuhlala ixesha elide kunye nokugcinwa kakuhle kobushushu. Kodwa ngenxa yexabiso eliphezulu, i-cotton, i-viscose, i-polyester kunye nezinye i-fiber blended ukusetyenziswa. Iimpahla zoboya zidume ngokukhululeka kwesimbo sazo sobuhle kunye nobutofotofo, kwaye ikheshmere ingakumbi inodumo “lwegolide ethambileyo”.

8. Isilika

Isilika, ekwaziwa ngokuba yisilika ekrwada, luhlobo losinga lwendalo. Umntu wayesebenzisa omnye wemicu yezilwanyana. Isilika yinxalenye yeemveliso zempucuko yamandulo yaseTshayina. Isilika yeyona ikhaphukhaphu, ithambile kwaye igqwesileyo kwindalo. Inokubuyiselwa ngokulula kwimeko yayo yangaphambili emva kokuba isusiwe kumandla angaphandle. Ilaphu lesilika linokungena komoya okugqwesileyo kunye nokunyameka kokufuma. Isilika ubukhulu becala yenziwe ngeprotheyini yezilwanyana kwaye ityebile kwiindidi ezili-18 zeeamino acids ezibalulekileyo kumzimba womntu, ezinokukhuthaza amandla eeseli zolusu kwaye zithintele ukuqina kwemithambo yegazi. Ukunxitywa kwelaphu lesilika ixesha elide kunokuthintela ukuguga kwesikhumba kwaye kunefuthe elikhethekileyo lokuchasa ukurhawuzelelwa kwezinye izifo zolusu. Ilaphu lesilika linodumo "lwesikhumba sesibini somzimba womntu" kunye "ne-fiber queen".

9. Spandex

I-Spandex luhlobo lwefiber elastiki, igama lenkqubo ye-polyurethane fiber. ISpandex yakhuthazwa ngempumelelo yiBayer yaseJamani ngowe-1937, yaza iDuPont yaseUnited States yaqalisa imveliso yemizi-mveliso ngowe-1959. Amandla ngama-2 ~ 3 amaxesha aphezulu kunalawo esilika ye-latex, ukuxinana komgca kuncinci, kwaye kunokumelana nokuthotywa kweekhemikhali. ISpandex ineasidi elungileyo kunye nokumelana ne-alkaline, ukuxhathisa ukubila, ukuxhathisa kwamanzi olwandle, ukuxhathisa ukucoca okomileyo kunye nokumelana nokunxiba.

I-Spandex yifayibha yokwenziwa ene-elongation engaqhelekanga (ngaphezu kwe-400%), i-modulus ephantsi kunye nezinga eliphezulu lokubuyisela. Ngenxa yokuba i-spandex inezinga eliphezulu lokwandiswa, ingasetyenziselwa ukudala iimpahla eziphezulu. Ezinje: Impahla yezemidlalo yobuchwephesha, isuti yokuqina, isuti yokuntywila, isuti yokuqubha, isuti yokuqubha, isuti yebhasikithi, ibra, i-suspenders, ibhulukhwe yokutyibilika, ijean, iibhulukhwe, iikawusi, izifudumezi zomlenze, iidiapers, iithayithi, iimpahla zangaphantsi, onesie, iimpahla ezivalayo, ukulecing, iimpahla ezikhuselayo zotyando, iimpahla ezikhuselayo zemikhosi yolungiselelo, ukukhwela ibhayisekile enemikhono emifutshane, ivest yokujijisana, isuti yokubhexa, impahla yangaphantsi, impahla yokusebenza, iMpahla esemgangathweni, njalo njalo.