Nsalu zoluka zimapangidwa makamaka ndi ulusi wa zomwe zikuchokera

Zigawo zazikulu za nsalu zoluka ndi izi: thonje, viscose, poliyesitala, akiliriki, nayiloni, hemp, ubweya, silika, spandex ndi zina zotero.

Kodi matanthauzo ndi mawonekedwe azinthu zosiyanasiyana zopangira?

1. Cotton Fiber

Ulusi wa thonje ndi mtundu wa ulusi wambewu womwe umapangidwa potalikitsa ndi kulimbitsa ma cell a epidermal ovule ovunda, omwe ndi osiyana ndi ulusi wamba wamba. Chigawo chake chachikulu ndi cellulose. Cellulose ndi polima wachilengedwe. Ma cellulose a thonje wokhwima bwino amakhala pafupifupi 94%. Komanso, lili ndi pang'ono polypetalous, sera, mapuloteni, mafuta, madzi sungunuka zinthu, phulusa ndi zamoyo zina zogwirizana. Thonje fiber ili ndi mphamvu zambiri, mpweya wabwino wodutsa, kusagwira bwino kwa makwinya ndi katundu wosasunthika. Kukana kutentha kwabwino, kwachiwiri kwa hemp; Kusakwanira kwa asidi, kumachepetsa kukana kwa alkali kutentha; Imalumikizana bwino ndi utoto, utoto wosavuta, chromatography wathunthu komanso utoto wowala. Chifukwa ulusi wa thonje uli ndi zinthu zabwino kwambiri, ndi chimodzi mwazinthu zofunika kwambiri pamakampani opanga nsalu.

2. Viscose

Viscose, yomwe imadziwikanso kuti thonje lamunthu, ndi mtundu wa ulusi wopangidwa ndi anthu. Viscose fiber ndiye mtundu waukulu wa ulusi wopangidwa ndi anthu komanso wachiwiri pakukula kwa ulusi wamankhwala ku China. Zopangira zazikulu za ulusi wa viscose ndi zamkati zamankhwala, kuphatikiza zamkati za thonje ndi zamkati zamatabwa. Ma cellulose oyera amasiyanitsidwa ndikusinthidwanso ndi zomwe zimachitika. Viscose fiber ili ndi katundu wabwino wa hygroscopic, pansi pamikhalidwe yamlengalenga. Mlingo wobwezeretsa chinyezi ndi pafupifupi 13%. Pambuyo pakukula kwa hygroscopic, m'mimba mwake imatha kukulitsidwa ndi 50%, kotero kuti nsalu ya viscose imamva molimba pambuyo pa madzi, kuchuluka kwa shrinkage ndi kwakukulu. Kapangidwe kake ka viscose fiber ndi kofanana ndi thonje, motero imakhala yolimbana ndi alkali kuposa asidi, koma kukana kwa alkali ndi kukana kwa asidi ndizoyipa kuposa thonje. Kudaya kwa ulusi wa viscose kumafanana ndi thonje. Ulusi wa viscose uli ndi katundu wabwino wa hygroscopic, wosavuta kuyipitsa, wosavuta kupanga magetsi osasunthika, komanso uli ndi luso la spinnability, lomwe limagwiritsidwa ntchito kwambiri mumitundu yosiyanasiyana ya nsalu, zovala ndi zina.

Nsalu yopangidwa ndi viscose fiber ndi yofewa, yosalala, yopuma komanso yomasuka kuvala. Lili ndi mtundu wowala komanso kufulumira kwamtundu wabwino pambuyo pa utoto. Zoyenera kupanga zovala zamkati, zakunja ndi zokongoletsera zosiyanasiyana.

3. Acrylic Fiber

Acrylic fiber ndi ulusi wopangidwa ndi polyacrylonitrile kapena acrylonitrile copolymer yomwe ili ndi 85% acrylonitrile. Acrylic fiber elasticity ndi yabwino. Elongation 20% ya rebound rate imatha kukhalabe ndi 65%, fluffy curl komanso yofewa. Ulusi wa acrylic uli ndi kukhazikika kwabwino kwambiri, ndipo mphamvu zake zimangotsika ndi 20% zikawonekera panja kwa chaka chimodzi. Kachitidwe ka acrylic fiber amafanana kwambiri ndi ubweya. Kusungirako kutentha ndi 15% kuposa ubweya wa ubweya, wotchedwa ubweya wopangira. Lili ndi ubwino wa kufewa, kudzitukumula, utoto wosavuta, mtundu wowala, kukana kuwala, antibacterial, osaopa tizilombo ndi zina zotero. Malinga ndi zofunikira pakugwiritsa ntchito mosiyanasiyana, imatha kukhala yopota kapena yosakanikirana ndi ulusi wachilengedwe. Zovala zake zimagwiritsidwa ntchito kwambiri popanga zovala, kukongoletsa, mafakitale ndi zina.

4. Polyester

Polyester fiber ndi ulusi wopangidwa ndi polyester yozungulira yomwe ndi polycondensation ya organic dibasic acid ndi dibasic alcohol. Anapangidwa mu 1941, ndiye mtundu woyamba waukulu wa ulusi wopangidwa. Polyester fiber ndi ubwino waukulu wa kukana makwinya ndi conformal katundu ndi zothandiza kwambiri, ndi mphamvu mkulu ndi zotanuka kuchira. Ndi yamphamvu komanso yolimba, yosagwira makwinya, yopanda kusita, yopanda ndodo. Ulusi wa polyester uli ndi mphamvu zapamwamba, modulus yapamwamba komanso kuyamwa kwamadzi otsika. Amagwiritsidwa ntchito kwambiri ngati nsalu zachitukuko komanso nsalu zamakampani. Monga nsalu, ulusi wa polyester staple ukhoza kuwomba mwangwiro ndipo ndi woyenera kusakanikirana ndi ulusi wina. Zitha kuphatikizidwa ndi ulusi wachilengedwe monga thonje, hemp ndi ubweya, komanso ndi ulusi wowonjezera wamankhwala monga viscose, acetate ndi polyacrylonitrile. Nsalu zokhala ngati thonje, zaubweya komanso zonyezimira zopangidwa ndi kupota koyera kapena kusakaniza nthawi zambiri zimakhala ndi mawonekedwe abwino kwambiri a ulusi wa poliyesitala, monga kukana makwinya ndi kukopa, kukhazikika kwa mawonekedwe, kukana kuvala komanso kuvala kwa nsalu, pamene zolakwa zoyambirira za ulusi wa poliyesitala, monga magetsi osasunthika ndi zovuta zopaka utoto pakupanga zovala, mayamwidwe osauka a thukuta ndi mpweya, komanso kusungunuka mosavuta m'mabowo pakachitika Mars, etc. Itha kuchepetsedwa ndikuwongolera ndi kusakaniza kwa hydrophilic. fiber kumlingo wina. Ulusi wopotoka wa poliyesitala umagwiritsidwa ntchito makamaka kuluka nsalu zokhala ngati silika. Itha kulumikizidwanso ndi ulusi wachilengedwe kapena ulusi wamankhwala, kapena ndi silika kapena ulusi wina wamankhwala. Kuluka uku kumakhala ndi maubwino angapo a polyester.

Ulusi wopangidwa ndi poliyesitala (makamaka zotanuka otsika DTY) ndi wosiyana ndi ulusi wamba wa poliyesitala wonyezimira kwambiri, ulusi waukulu, tsitsi lolimba, kufewa komanso kutalika kotalika kwambiri (mpaka 400%). Nsalu yoluka imakhala ndi makhalidwe odalirika osungira kutentha, chivundikiro chabwino ndi drape, kuwala kofewa ndi zina zotero. Ndizoyenera kwambiri kuluka nsalu za suti monga nsalu zonga ubweya wa nkhosa ndi serge, zovala zakunja, malaya ndi nsalu zosiyanasiyana zokongoletsera monga makatani, nsalu zapa tebulo, nsalu za sofa ndi zina zotero.

5. Nayiloni

Nayiloni, yomwe imadziwikanso kuti Polyamide, idapangidwa ndi wasayansi wodziwika bwino waku America Carothers komanso gulu lofufuza zasayansi pansi pa utsogoleri wake. Aka kanali koyamba kuti ulusi wopangidwa padziko lapansi. Nayiloni ndi mawu oti ulusi wa polyamide (nayiloni). Maonekedwe a nayiloni amapangitsa kuti nsalu ziziwoneka zatsopano. Kaphatikizidwe kake ndikupambana kwakukulu mumakampani opanga ma fiber, komanso gawo lofunikira kwambiri mu chemistry ya polima. Ubwino waukulu wa nayiloni ndikuti kukana kuvala ndikokwera kuposa ulusi wina uliwonse, kukana kuvala ndikokwera ka 10 kuposa thonje, kuwirikiza ka 20 kuposa ubweya, kuwonjezera pang'ono ulusi wina wa nayiloni munsalu yosakanikirana, kumatha kusintha kwambiri kukana kwake. , pamene anatambasulidwa kwa 3-6%, zotanuka kuchira mlingo akhoza kufika 100%; Imatha kupirira makumi masauzande akupindika popanda kusweka. Mphamvu ya ulusi wa nayiloni ndi 1-2 kuposa thonje, 4-5 nthawi zambiri kuposa ubweya wa ubweya, ndi katatu kuposa viscose fiber. Komabe, ulusi wa polyamide umakhala ndi kutentha kosakwanira komanso kukana kuwala komanso kusasungidwa bwino, zomwe zimapangitsa kuti zovala zisakhale zosalala ngati poliyesitala. Ulusi wa nayiloni ukhoza kusakanizidwa kapena kupota koyera muzovala zosiyanasiyana. Ulusi wa nayiloni umagwiritsidwa ntchito poluka ndi mafakitale a silika, monga masitonkeni a nayiloni, gauze wa nayiloni, ukonde wa udzudzu, zingwe za nayiloni, zovala zakunja za nayiloni, silika wa nayiloni kapena zinthu za silika zolukana. Ulusi wa nayiloni umagwiritsidwa ntchito kwambiri kuphatikiza ndi ubweya kapena zinthu zina zamankhwala kuti apange mitundu yosiyanasiyana - yosamva nsalu.

6. Flax Fiber

Flax fiber ndi ulusi womwe umapezeka ku zomera zambiri za fulakisi. Ulusi wa fulakesi ndi ulusi wa cellulose womwe nsalu yake imakhala ndi zinthu zofanana ndi thonje. Flax Fiber (kuphatikiza ramie ndi fulakesi) amatha kuwomba mwangwiro kapena kusakanikirana kukhala nsalu. Linen ali ndi makhalidwe a mphamvu mkulu, ogwira mayamwidwe chinyezi ndi amphamvu matenthedwe madutsidwe, makamaka mphamvu ya ulusi woyamba zachilengedwe. Ulusi wa fulakesi uli ndi zabwino zomwe ulusi wina sungafanane nawo: umagwira ntchito bwino mayamwidwe a chinyezi ndi mpweya wabwino, kutentha mwachangu komanso kuwongolera, kozizira komanso kowoneka bwino, kutuluka thukuta sikuyandikira, mawonekedwe opepuka, mphamvu zolimba, kupewa tizilombo ndi mildew, magetsi osasunthika. , Nsalu sizosavuta kuipitsa, mtundu wofewa komanso wowolowa manja, wowawa, woyenera kutulutsa ndi kutulutsa khungu la munthu. Komabe, kukula kwa ulusi wa fulakesi kwakhala kochepa chifukwa cha kukhuthala kwake kocheperako, kukana kwa crease, kukana abrasion komanso kumva kukankha. Komabe, ndi chitukuko chaukadaulo wosiyanasiyana wochiritsira komanso kukonzanso pambuyo pake, zina mwazovuta zake zachilengedwe zasinthidwa kwambiri. Kafukufuku akuwonetsa kuti pakati pa ulusi wambiri wa nsalu, ulusi wa fulakesi ndi ulusi wachilengedwe womwe umagwira ntchito kwambiri. Ulusi wa fulakesi wakhala umodzi mwa ulusi waukulu kwambiri wa nsalu ku China ndipo umadziwika kwambiri padziko lonse lapansi.

7. Ubweya

Ubweya umapangidwa makamaka ndi mapuloteni. Kugwiritsiridwa ntchito kwaubweya kwaumunthu kutha kuyambika ku Nyengo ya Neolithic, kuchokera ku Central Asia kupita ku Mediterranean ndi madera ena a dziko lapansi kufalikira, motero kukhala nsalu yaikulu ku Asia ndi ku Ulaya. Ulusi waubweya ndi wofewa komanso wotanuka, ndipo ukhoza kugwiritsidwa ntchito popanga nsalu monga ubweya, ubweya, zofunda, zomverera ndi zovala. Zogulitsa zaubweya ndizolemera kwambiri, zimateteza bwino kutentha, zomasuka kuvala ndi zina zotero. Ubweya ndi chinthu chofunikira kwambiri pamakampani opanga nsalu. Ili ndi ubwino wa elasticity yabwino, kuyamwa kwa chinyezi chokhazikika komanso kusunga kutentha kwabwino. Koma chifukwa cha mtengo wapamwamba, ndi thonje, viscose, poliyesitala ndi zina zosakaniza za fiber. Nsalu zaubweya zimatchuka chifukwa cha masitayelo ake omasuka komanso otonthoza, ndipo cashmere makamaka imadziwika kuti ndi "golide wofewa".

8. Silika

Silika, yemwe amadziwikanso kuti silika waiwisi, ndi mtundu wa ulusi wachilengedwe. Munthu ankagwiritsa ntchito ulusi wina waukulu wa nyama. Silika ndi mbali ya zinthu zachitukuko chakale cha ku China. Silika ndiye ulusi wopepuka, wofewa komanso wabwino kwambiri m'chilengedwe. Ikhoza kubwezeretsedwa mosavuta ku chikhalidwe chake choyambirira pambuyo pochotsedwa ku mphamvu yakunja. Nsalu za silika zimakhala ndi mpweya wabwino kwambiri komanso kutulutsa chinyezi. Silika amapangidwa makamaka ndi mapuloteni a nyama ndipo ali ndi mitundu 18 ya ma amino acid ofunika kwambiri m'thupi la munthu, omwe amatha kulimbikitsa mphamvu zama cell a khungu ndikuletsa kuuma kwa mitsempha. Kuvala nsalu za silika kwa nthawi yayitali kumatha kuletsa kukalamba kwa khungu ndipo kumakhala ndi mphamvu yapadera yoletsa kuyabwa pa matenda ena apakhungu. Nsalu ya silika ili ndi mbiri ya "khungu lachiwiri la thupi la munthu" ndi "fiber queen".

9. Spandex

Spandex ndi mtundu wa ulusi wotanuka, dzina ladongosolo la polyurethane fiber. Spandex idakwezedwa bwino ndi Bayer ku Germany mu 1937, ndipo DuPont ku United States idayamba kupanga mafakitale mu 1959. Kulimba kwake ndi 2 ~ 3 kuwirikiza kawiri kuposa silika wa latex, kachulukidwe kakang'ono kamene kamakhala kocheperako, komanso kosagwirizana ndi kuwonongeka kwa mankhwala. Spandex ili ndi asidi wabwino ndi alkaline kukana, kukana thukuta, kukana madzi a m'nyanja, kukana kutsukidwa kouma komanso kusavala.

Spandex ndi ulusi wopangidwa wokhala ndi utali wosweka modabwitsa (kupitilira 400%), modulus yotsika komanso kuchira kwamphamvu kwambiri. Chifukwa spandex ili ndi kuchuluka kwakukulu, imatha kugwiritsidwa ntchito kupanga zovala zotambasula kwambiri. Monga: Zovala za akatswiri, suti yolimbitsa thupi, suti yosambira, yosambira, mpikisano wosambira, suti ya basketball, bra, suspenders, mathalauza otsetsereka, ma jeans, akabudula, masokosi, zotenthetsera miyendo, matewera, zothina, zovala zamkati, onesie, zovala zoyandikira, lacing, zovala zodzitchinjiriza pochita opaleshoni, zovala zodzitchinjiriza za mphamvu zoyendetsera katundu, kupalasa njinga zazifupi zazifupi, vest yolimbana, suti yopalasa, zovala zamkati, zovala zochitira bwino, Zovala zabwino, ndi zina zotero.